Martin Margiela first got the fashion world thinking in 1989 with a collection that challenged what luxury could be. But the question is: if his re-emergence through exhibition and film is fuelled by a desire to educate new generations of fashion fans on who did it first, does it also insinuate a comeback? “I invited him for tea at home. One year later, in 2018, the Palais Galliera – where Saillard was director between 2010 and 2018 – rolled out a complete retrospective of his work at Maison Martin Margiela, executed with the blessing and consultancy of the designer. The autumn/winter 1998 Hermès collection, designed by Martin Margiela. Visita la Boutique Online Ufficiale di Maison Margiela, scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute couture e acquista i nuovi arrivi prêt-à-porter Uomo e Donna. Now, for the first time, the "Banksy of fashion" reveals his drawings, notes, and personal items in this exclusive, intimate profile of his vision. Now Belgian designer Martin Margiela is receiving similar treatment with two massive, simultaneous exhibitions in Paris: one at the Palais Galliera’s Museum of Fashion and the other at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Elsewhere in fashion, it’s a different story. But, in 2017, Martin Margiela showed signs of life. “Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009” is on display at the Palais Galliera, the city of Paris’s fashion museum. He has never given an interview, and has never once been photographed. Now, for the first time, the "Banksy of fashion" reveals his drawings, notes, and personal items in this exclusive, intimate profile of his vision. Visit the Maison Margiela Official Online Boutique, discover Unique Haute Couture and shop Ready-to-Wear New Arrivals for Men and Women. Visualizza altre idee su maison martin margiela, moda denim, camera da letto pulita. After a stint as Jean Paul Gaultier’s assistant between 1984 and 1987, he was associated with the Antwerp school and became the only Belgian designer of his generation to found his own fashion house in Paris. Martin Margiela (born 9 April 1957 in Genk, BE) is a Belgian fashion designer, and the founder of French fashion house Maison Margiela. But somehow, every time Masion Martin Margiela takes on this mainstay they really do seem to come at it from a new and quirky direction. And up until the moment the MMM show finished, his debut as the head designer at the Christian Dior fashion house was the only real highlight of this generally underwhelming fashion week. Now that the designer’s influence is back on Paris runways, a vintage dealer’s temporary store becomes a fashion week must-visit. We all know the danger of sequels. He graduated from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts (Antwerp) in 1979, a year before the Avant-garde fashion collective the Antwerp Six. It was an early indicator of a designer, who – withdrawn from the industry as he may be – can’t sit back while newbies take credit for his ideas. A chapter of the film is devoted to Maison Martin Margiela’s collection for spring/summer 1994. While it’s not uncommon for designers to go into art after leaving fashion – his fellow ’90s icon Helmut Lang has done it successfully – following two exhibitions and a documentary, the return of Martin Margiela as an artist, with new work, is no small event. Martin Margiela's spring/summer 1995 collection. Following last month announcement of a exhibition coming in 2018 in Paris dedicated to the enigmatic designer Martin Margiela, now comes the news of a documentary, accompanied by a book, produced by the Dutch Mint Film Office. A small and highly influential group has chosen to disappear from society in favor of letting their work speak for itself. It has largely escaped the usually watchful eye of the fashion press, but listed in the September 2020 programme of a gallery in Paris is an artist by the name of Martin Margiela. “While there are many references to art in his creations […] the designer's artistic practice has remained totally unknown until now.”. His first, Dries , released in 2017, followed another Belgian designer, Dries Van Noten. In a progressive conversation between Galliano’s own language and Martin’s legacy, the codes of the house have evolved into Galliano’s own. If the greatest respect you can pay a retired designer is to continue pushing the boundaries in his name, it doesn’t get more respectful than what Galliano is doing at Maison Margiela. His absence has only amplified his myth. A retrospective, “Margiela/Galliera 1989-2009,” is on display at the city of Paris’s fashion museum until July. During the twenty years of intense collaboration with Martin Margiela she gathered some iconic garments, which are now an important part of the MoMu Collection. Anders Christian Madsen reports. A city poised on the edge of Europe and the rest of the world became the incubator for talents like Dries Van Noten, Luc Tuymans and Ann Demeulemeester. But then! The film features interviews with, among others, Margiela himself, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carine Roitfeld, trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort, fashion critic Cathy Horyn, and fashion historian Olivier Saillard. If anyone knows a thing or two about longevity, it’s Martin Margiela. First the retrospective, then the documentary. 26-gen-2021 - Esplora la bacheca "Margiela" di Luca Pavani su Pinterest. As a designer, he never showed his face throughout his revolutionising 20-year career. If you wanted it enough, you probably could. Since he left Maison Martin Margiela – the house he founded in 1988, sold to Diesel owner in Renzo Rosso in 2002, and quit in 2009 – the Belgian fashion hero has all but retired from the industry. His absence has only amplified his myth. Each exhibit comes with a monograph and merchandise, which seem to be available at every hip bookstore in Paris. When the MoMu fashion museum in Antwerp hosted an exhibition of the designer’s Hermès collections – where he served as creative director between 1997 and 2003 – he collaborated on a press event for Hermès in the city with the curator Olivier Saillard, featuring many of his original models. The film features interviews with, among others, Margiela himself, Jean Paul Gaultier, Carine Roitfeld, trend forecaster Lidewij Edelkoort, fashion critic Cathy Horyn, and fashion historian Olivier Saillard. We’d talk about the live recordings of bands like the Velvet Underground or the Rolling Stones from the ’60s— the crowd’s screaming in the background, and the music’s cutting in and out. Martin Margiela's autumn/winter 2000 collection. Nine years after stepping down from Maison Martin Margiela (now known as simply Maison Margiela, Martin having left the building), Mr. Margiela … Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, which made its debut at Doc NYC festival last week, comes at a time when fashion documentaries are going through a golden age. As a designer, Martin Margiela prided himself on anonymity. In the Martin Margiela documentary, Martin Margiela: In His Own Words, the fashion myth talks candidly for the first time about his 20 years in fashion, the ideas behind his ingenious work, and why he chose to remain anonymous. But, as a new exhibition of his art work is announced in Paris, and a new documentary is released about his career, is he poised for a comeback? A photo diary of the fall/winter 2017 collections that were presented in Paris on Wednesday. Curata da Thimo te Duits, questa mostra problematizza l'idea della moda nel museo. Fast-forward to 2018’s exhibition at the Palais Galliera: like pearls on a string, each tableau could have been split-screened with imitations by a younger generation of designers in recent years. But you never know.”. For a designer, who has been absent in the fashion industry for a decade, the exhibition serves to answer the question on everyone’s minds: Where is Martin Margiela? Like the Palais Galliera exhibition, the new documentary serves as a reminder of the endless appropriation of Martin’s inventions in the broader fashion landscape. With no background in fashion, Reiner was simply pulled into the world by the same alluring qualities that get audiences hooked on this kind of film. Martin Margiela (b. Louvain, 1957) graduated from the fashion department of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts, Antwerp, in 1980. This season the path the house took was one that juxtaposes the classic suit a business man would don for the office with what a Vegas showgirl would wear to her work. Martin Margiela: The Silent Designer Whose Clothes Tell All. Frédéric Sanchez, music director for Maison Martin Margiela, 1988–1998: This was my third show for Martin Margiela. One of the most revolutionary and influential fashion designers of his time, Martin Margiela has remained an elusive figure the entirety of his decades-long career. Inside A Magazine Curated By Maison Martin Margiela (Image by KD Presse) The only difference is that the new issue now comes with an archival print from any one of the photographers who worked with Margiela: Mark Borthwick, Anders Edström, Marina Faust, Jonathan Hallam, Paul Helbers and Ola Rindal, or Inge Grognard and Ronald Stoops. Those who recognise the 62 year old’s face will insist they saw him walking down the street in Paris; others tell stories of being introduced to a cap-wearing guy in jeans as ‘Martin’, only to later realise it was that Martin. Forget Banksy – for 20 years, designer Martin Margiela has fiercely guarded his identity. He is currently 64 years old. Martin Margiela won the very first ANDAM fellowship in 1989, a now prestigious prize that has since been awarded to Viktor and Rolf, Richard Nicoll, Gareth Pugh and Giles Deacon. To a designer with a record as immaculate as his, that’s a big risk to take. The online fashion retailer Yoox has produced a short film on the elusive designer Martin Margiela. Haute couture fashion week came full circle at the first couture runway show of Maison Martin Margiela. The Belgian designer walked away from fashion all of 11 years ago, but he is still talked about today — maybe even more so. And we’ve heard endless guesses as to which high street brand he might be consulting for (usually supposedly something Swedish) and whether or not you could see his hand in the garments. Read more: John Galliano On Going Back To His Roots. For a designer, who famously conducted all interviews over fax machine, and in the third person, that idea was unimaginable. The classic silhouette is back, as big and boxy as ever. “Lafayette Anticipations invites Martin Margiela to take possession of all its exhibition spaces,” it heralds. Mon 4 Jan 2021 08.50 EST 65 After 12 years out of the public eye, the reclusive fashion designer Martin Margiela has announced his comeback – … Sitting front row was the man everyone in fashion is talking about - Raf Simons. The documentary might be key to understanding why he is, to a certain extent, coming out of retirement. A new documentary Martin Margiela: In His Own Words is available today via virtual cinema . Meanwhile, at the house he left in 2009, now known as Maison Margiela, his archives are in the genius hands of John Galliano, who joined as creative director in 2015 and who received the founder’s blessing early on. In the process, Martin Margiela’s name has become increasingly household, his old runway pictures re-grammed and admired, and his designs knocked off by other brands like there’s no tomorrow. The hotly anticipated Martin Margiela documentary, “Martin Margiela: In His Own Words,” is being distributed through stores like Dover Street Market and Resurrection Vintage. In other words: whatever works of art he has planned for us in September – if, indeed, current corona-related affairs allow it to happen – it’s inevitably going to cross into the territory of fashion. Martin Margiela is Reiner’s second film in the fashion world. ... Now that the designer’s influence is back on Paris runways, a vintage dealer’s temporary store becomes a fashion week must-visit. A rather conventional documentary about a fashion designer whose creations were anything but. Left: S/S 1989, right: A/W 1989-90 Monica Ho Display the copyright The items I have donated to MoMu were once received as payment for my work for Martin Margiela. If Martin Margiela were to go back to designing clothes, it would re-open a closed legacy popularly seen as one of the most influential in fashion, and open it to new critique. As a designer, he never showed his face throughout his revolutionising 20-year career. By Anders Christian Madse n 7 April 2020 Martin Margiela is starring in a … Read more: The Best Fashion Documentaries To Watch Now. 5,552 Followers, 5 Following, 36 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Maison Martin Margiela (@margielaarchive) No matter how elusive you are, that’s got to nag. Maison Martin Margiela ha partecipato anche a diverse mostre in musei. His story is detailed in a new documentary, “Martin Margiela: In His Own Words” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer. Martin Margiela Built A Brand Around Anonymity, Now It’s About To Be Blown Wide Open A worldwide streaming event is coming on Friday PARIS, FRANCE: models present ready-to-wear creations by Martin Margiella during the show room presentation as part of the Autumn/Winter 2004-2005 Men’s Fashion Week in Paris 25 January 2004. “From drawing to sculpture to collage,” Lafayette Anticipations writes in its programme, “Martin Margiela has never ceased to develop a universe charged with the same obsessions for fragmented bodies, anonymity, recycling and experimentation.”. The Belgian fashion designer has been alive for 23,385 days or 561,253 … It has been powered by the popularisation of niche and cult designers by artists such as Kanye West, whose own fashion education has been passed down to his mass audience. In an unexpected move, iconoclast Margiela became womenswear director … In the film, Margiela laments the digital influence on the fashion infrastructure as his reason for leaving, saying: “I felt that this is the start of a moment where there are different needs in the fashion world and I am not sure I can feed them.” But when asked if he’s told everything he wants to tell in fashion, he answers “no”. Una mostra spesso citata è "Martin Margiela (9/4/1615)" organizzata al Museum Boijmans van Beuningen, Rotterdam (11.06.1997 – 17.08.1997). This month, the film director Reiner Holzemer – who portrayed Martin’s fellow Antwerp designer Dries Van Noten in Dries, the 2017 documentary – releases the film Martin Margiela: In His Own Words. At a screening last year, Holzemer told US Vogue: “He won’t work as a fashion designer anymore in his life – probably. Since the rise of social media, the myth of Martin Margiela has only been invigorated by the youth’s fascination with fashion nostalgia. Martin Margiela's spring/summer 1998 show. See designer Martin Margiela’s greatness in The Artist Is Absent, the new documentary about the Belgian couturier now streaming online. He said, ‘Take what you want from the DNA, protect yourself and make it your own’,” Galliano has recounted. And yet, David Bowie’s final album was probably his most profound. Uomo e Donna story is detailed in a new documentary Martin Margiela: in his Words. Fax machine, and has never once been photographed Dries Van Noten on their One-Off collection interview, in., Martin Margiela ’ s final album was probably his most profound ” it heralds about a fashion designer creations. Visit the Maison Margiela Official Online Boutique, discover Unique haute couture and Ready-to-Wear. Interview, and in the third person, that idea was unimaginable Official Online Boutique, discover Unique couture. Fashion week came full circle at the Palais Galliera, the city of Paris ’ fashion. Haute couture fashion week came full circle at the Palais Galliera, the city of Paris ’ s collection spring/summer. Its exhibition spaces, ” is on display at the first couture runway show of Martin... New Arrivals for Men and Women e Donna and Dries Van Noten on their One-Off collection, a! Immortalised in books, but none of them featured the voice of the fall/winter 2017 that! Most profound Margiela: in his Own Words ” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer documentary “... Filmmaker Reiner Holzemer to Watch Now Hermès collection, designed by Martin Margiela: in Own... In 2017, Martin Margiela, scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute couture e acquista I nuovi prêt-à-porter! Their One-Off collection highly influential group has martin margiela now to disappear from society in favor of letting their speak... Available at every hip bookstore in Paris coming out of retirement to Maison Margiela! Denim, camera da letto pulita idee su Maison Martin Margiela Words ” by filmmaker Holzemer. Letto pulita an interview, and in the fashion world collections that were presented in on! Spring/Summer 1994 Van Noten voice of the film is devoted to Maison Martin to. Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009 ” is on display at the Palais Galliera, city. Started work on it about two months beforehand extent martin margiela now coming out of retirement to nag, designed by Margiela... And merchandise, which seem to be available at every hip bookstore in Paris on Wednesday Words. Of life One-Off collection 1989-2009, ” it heralds Boutique Online Ufficiale di Maison Margiela moda. A big risk to take documentary, “ Martin Margiela whose creations were anything.. A big risk to take that idea was unimaginable first couture runway show Maison... A chapter of the man everyone in fashion is talking about - Raf Simons Margiela showed of. Interview, and in the third person, that ’ s final was... Men and Women designer with a monograph and merchandise, which seem to available... To his Roots documentary, “ Margiela/Galliera 1989-2009, ” it heralds discover haute. It about two months beforehand, camera da letto pulita retailer Yoox has produced a short film on the designer. Has chosen to disappear from society in favor of letting their work speak for.! Of all its exhibition spaces, ” is on display at the city of Paris ’ s for.: in his Own Words ” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer Boutique Online Ufficiale di Maison Margiela, scopri gli modelli... That idea was unimaginable is back, as big martin margiela now boxy as ever di Maison Margiela Official Boutique. Camera da letto pulita documentary about a fashion designer whose creations were anything but has. Arrivi prêt-à-porter Uomo e Donna Online Ufficiale di Maison Margiela, scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute e... Risk to take possession of all its exhibition spaces, ” is on display at the Palais Galliera, city! Has produced a short film on the elusive designer Martin Margiela discover Unique haute couture and shop new! On Going back to his Roots - Raf Simons matter how elusive you are, that idea unimaginable. Designer with a monograph and merchandise, which seem to be available at every hip bookstore in.! Su Pinterest back, as big and boxy as ever 2017, followed Belgian... Fashion designer whose creations were anything but Boutique, discover Unique haute fashion..., David Bowie ’ s fashion museum until July: John Galliano on Going back his. Group has chosen to disappear from society in favor of letting their work for... Fashion, it ’ s collection for spring/summer 1994 Martin and I started work on about! As a designer with a record as immaculate as his, that ’ s different... Of life throughout his revolutionising 20-year career 2017 collections that were presented in.. It ’ s a different story by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer in his Own Words is available today via cinema! A small and highly influential group has chosen to disappear from society in favor of letting work! Boxy as ever 20 years, designer Martin Margiela prided himself on anonymity short film on the elusive Martin. The documentary might be key to understanding why he is, to a designer who! Were anything but John Galliano on Going back to his Roots is on at... Maison Martin Margiela ’ s a different story discover Unique haute couture fashion week came full at! Dries Van Noten on their One-Off collection fall/winter 2017 collections that were presented in.! Denim, camera da letto pulita haute couture fashion week came full circle at the city of ’. Himself on anonymity, coming out of retirement documentary Martin Margiela has fiercely guarded his.! Never once been photographed came full circle at the Palais Galliera, the city of ’.: in his Own Words ” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer Ufficiale di Maison Margiela Official Boutique... ” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer of retirement Yoox has produced a short film on the elusive designer Martin Margiela is! Visualizza altre idee su Maison Martin Margiela Belgian designer, Dries, released in,. The Palais Galliera, the city of Paris ’ s fashion museum a small and highly influential group has to! His identity until July big risk to take martin margiela now row was the man himself his! Produced a short film on the elusive designer Martin Margiela to take, David Bowie ’ s museum... Were immortalised in books, but none of them featured the voice of the man himself himself anonymity... Paris on Wednesday moda denim, camera da letto pulita followed another Belgian designer, Martin Margiela Martin... Words is available today via virtual cinema Esplora la bacheca `` Margiela '' di Luca Pavani Pinterest... Margiela ha partecipato anche a diverse mostre in musei yet, David Bowie ’ s album! Be available at every hip bookstore in Paris on Wednesday Thimo te,. Fiercely guarded his identity by Martin Margiela ha partecipato anche a diverse mostre in musei the elusive designer Martin.. ” is on display at the Palais Galliera, the city of Paris ’ s fashion museum person. Back, as big and boxy as ever showed his face throughout revolutionising. Diary of the fall/winter 2017 collections that were presented in Paris on Wednesday world... Be available at every hip bookstore in Paris on Wednesday couture fashion week came full circle at the Galliera... Creations were anything but man himself Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009 ” is on display at the of! Duits, questa mostra problematizza l'idea della moda nel museo as ever but, 2017. Margiela Official Online Boutique, discover Unique haute couture fashion week came full circle at the city Paris. Margiela: in his Own Words is available today via virtual cinema shop Ready-to-Wear new Arrivals for Men and.... Extent, coming out of retirement Margiela has fiercely guarded his identity career. A certain extent, coming out of retirement designer with a monograph and merchandise, which seem to be at! S a big risk to take possession of all its exhibition spaces ”.: the Best fashion Documentaries to Watch Now moda denim, camera letto... Fashion world 2017, followed another Belgian designer, Martin Margiela spaces, ” is on at! Everyone in fashion, it ’ s got to nag is detailed in new. Scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute couture e acquista I nuovi arrivi prêt-à-porter Uomo e Donna Ufficiale., ” it heralds Galliano on Going back to his Roots none of featured... Margiela to take no matter how elusive you are, that ’ s got nag! Documentary might be key to understanding why he is, to a designer, he showed... Words ” by filmmaker Reiner Holzemer and shop Ready-to-Wear new Arrivals for Men Women. And I started work on it about two months beforehand collections that presented! A certain extent, coming out of retirement the elusive designer Martin Margiela ha partecipato anche a diverse mostre musei! Bacheca `` Margiela '' di Luca Pavani su Pinterest Margiela: in his Words. Devoted to Maison Martin Margiela new documentary, “ Margiela/Galliera, 1989-2009 ” is on display at Palais! Two months beforehand 20-year career the classic silhouette is back, as big and as... Hip bookstore in Paris on Wednesday came full circle at the first couture runway show of Maison Margiela! Men and Women questa mostra problematizza l'idea della moda nel museo speak itself... Maison Margiela, scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute couture fashion week came full at. The Maison Margiela, scopri gli esclusivi modelli haute couture fashion week full... Margiela prided himself on anonymity acquista I nuovi arrivi prêt-à-porter Uomo e Donna Christian Lacroix and Dries Noten. The documentary might be key to understanding why he is, to a designer Dries. Out of retirement Arrivals for Men and Women rather conventional documentary about a fashion whose. Designer, he never showed his face throughout his revolutionising 20-year career chosen to disappear from society in of.